Lindsay (dragonzuela) wrote,
Lindsay
dragonzuela

Talon warmers (AKA arm warmers) pattern


I can't believe I was smart enough to figure out all on my own how to knit something hand-shaped, and yet I did not get the ribbing and intarsia centered on the hand. If I did these over I would fix that, as well as altering the starting point in the pattern so that the decreases and increases were more Magic Loop-friendly.

Photos of the rest of the process

We've got a spell of gorgeous weather right now, but at the risk of getting what I ask for, maybe it will cool off a little so I can make good use of these before the winter is over.

Yarn: Main Color is Sincere Sheep Kiellian Farm Blend in Fustic/Indigo. Contrasting Color is Brown Sheep Company Lamb's Pride in Persian Peacock.

Below is the pattern as I did it - I wrote it up as I went.

Gauge: 1 inch = 6.3 rows = 4.2 stitches

My measurements (with sleeves on):
Widest part of forearm = 10.5" around = CO 44 stitches
Knit without decrease until arm narrows, which is 4" or 25 rows
Wrist = 7.5" around = decrease to 32 stitches
Decreases happen over 4" or 25 rows (8" from cuff to wrist)
Widest part of hand is 9" or 38 stitches around, which occurs 2" or 14 rows after the wrist
Set aside nine stitches for thumb, and will pick up three more for a total of 12 (a little over 2" around)
Fingers are 7.5" around, so cast on three stitches for a total of 32.
Length of hand and thumb after this depends on how much you want to cover the fingers.

To make any section wider or narrower, add or subtract stitches evenly between A and B (see below).  In my case I made kind of a funny rib pattern in the cuff to account for the odd number of stitches.

Abbreviations:
A = P1K2P1K2P1K2P1 (the ribs along the top of the arm warmers)
B = P1K2P1 (the rib along the bottom)
C= K1P2K1P2K1P2K1 (the ribs along the top, when knitting on the wrong side)

To knit both at the same time with Magic Loop method:
I used a US #7 circular needle, 32" long.  I used the KnitPicks Options system, which has very flexible needles.   Would need a longer needle if less flexible.
Divide yarn into two balls, setting some aside for the intarsia later.  With one ball, CO 22 stitches.  With the second ball, CO 44 stitches.  Loop needle around to CO 22 more stitches with the first ball.  The one that was CO in two parts will end up as the right arm, and the other as the left.

In case it isn't obvious, always knit each piece with the ball of yarn with which you cast it on.
You can vary the position where you pull the needle through.
If you prefer to just knit one arm warmer at a time (on dpns, a small circular, or magic loop), just go through this whole pattern once ignoring the "left arm" lines and once ignoring the "right arm" lines.

*Join the one that you just finished casting on (right arm).  K1P1K2P2K2 A K2P2
Join the other one (left arm).  P1K2P2K2 B K2P2K2P1K1P1K2
Pull needle through to work the other half of the left arm.  P2K2 A K2P2K2P1K1
Pull through to work the other half of the right arm. K2P1K1P1K2P2K2 B K2P2K2P1
Repeat from * (minus the joins, of course.  You are already joined.) for a total of six rounds.

Now change everything to stockinette, except the A and B ribs.
*Right arm: K8 A K4
Left arm: K7 B K11, pull through, K4 A K8
Right arm: K11 B K7
Repeat from * for eighteen rounds more (nineteen total).  (Whole piece should be 4" long.)

Begin arm decreases.
Right arm: K8 A K4
Left arm: K1 ssk K4 B K4 K2tog K5, pull through, K4 A K8
Right arm: K5 ssk K4 B K4 K2tog K1

*Right arm: K8 A K4
Left arm: K6 B K11, pull through, K3 A K8
Right arm: K10 B K6
Repeat from * for two rounds more (three total).

Right arm: K8 A K4
Left arm: ssk K4 B K4 K2tog K5, pull through, K3 A K8
Right arm: K4 ssk K4 B K4 K2tog

*Right arm: K8 A K4
Left arm: K5 B K11, pull through, K2 A K8
Right arm: K9 B K5
Repeat from * for three rounds more (four total).

Right arm: K8 A K4
Left arm: ssk K3 B K4 K2tog K5, pull through, K2 A K8
Right arm: K3 ssk K4 B K4 K2tog (this decrease spans over to the next round, as will subsequent decreases)

*Right arm: K7 A K4
Left arm: K4 B K11, pull through, K1 A K8
Right arm: K8 B K5
Repeat from * once (two rounds total)

Right arm: K7 A K4
Left arm: K4 B K11, pull through, K1 A K6 ssk
Right arm: K8 B K5

Right arm: K7 A K4
Left arm: K4 B K4 K2tog K5, pull through, K1 A K7
Right arm: K2 ssk K4 B K4 K2tog

*Right arm: K6 A K4
Left arm: K4 B K10, pull through, K1 A K7
Right arm: K7 B K5
Repeat from * for three rounds total.

Right arm: K6 A K4
Left arm: K4 B K9, pull through, K2 A K5 ssk
Right arm: K7 B K5

Right arm: K6 A K4
Left arm: K4 B K4 K2tog K4, pull through, K1 A K6
Right arm: K1 ssk K4 B K4 K2tog

*Right arm: K5 A K4
Left arm: K4 B K9, pull through, K1 A K6
Right arm: K6 B K5
Repeat from * for two rounds total.

Right arm: K5 A K4
Left arm: K4 B K9, pull through, K1 A K4 ssk
Right arm: K6 B K5

Right arm: K5 A K4
Left arm: K4 B K4 K2tog K3, pull through, K1 A K5
Right arm: ssk K4 B K4 K2tog

Right arm: K4 A K4
Left arm: K4 B K8, pull through, K1 A K5
Right arm: K5 B K5

At this point you should be at the wrist.  Each arm warmer has 32 active stitches and is 8" long right now.

Now I switch from knitting in the round to straight knitting, still using Magic Loop.  This is purely for the sake of the intarsia pattern.  If you don't like the intarsia, you could change the pattern to keep knitting in the round.  Even if you do like the intarsia, you could probably keep knitting in the round for a few rounds more before it starts.

Unfortunately, because of the increases that happen in the hand, the two pieces need to be repositioned on the needle now (if you're doing both at once by Magic Loop).  I could probably change the whole pattern so that it started at a different position, such that this wouldn't be necessary.  If I ever knit this pattern again, I'll try changing it and post the results.  For now I don't want to post a pattern that I haven't tried.

Do all transfers by slipping stitches purlwise.
Right arm: K1.  Transfer the 15 stitches on the right needle onto a straight needle or DPN.  Transfer the first 16 stitches on the left needle (A with three stitches on either side) onto a separate straight needle o rDPN.  Knitwise, transfer the last stitch on the left needle onto the first straight needle, so that there are 16 stitches on each needle. Transfer them all back onto the circular needle.  They should all be exactly like they were before, except that one stitch has moved from the left needle to the right needle, crossing the barrier created by the loop with the other arm warmer on it.
K3 A K3
Left arm:Transfer the first 14 stitches (4 stitches, B, 6 stitches) from the left needle onto a DPN.  Transfer the next 16 stitches (3, A, 3) onto a second straight needle or DPN.  Carefully unknit the remaining two stitches, and put the two stitches underneath onto the first needle (so now you have 6, B, 6).  Starting with the stitch where the yarn is, pu tall of the stitches back onto the circular needle via the left tip.
Increase, K14, increase, pull through, K3 A K3
Right arm: Increase, K14, increase.

Turn.  Right arm: P18
Left arm: P3 C P3, pull through, P18.
Right arm: P3 C P3

Turn.  Right arm: K3 A K3
Left arm: increase K15 increase K1, pull through, K3 A K3
Right arm: K1 increase K15 increase

Turn.  Right arm: P20
Left arm: P3 C P3, pull through, P20
Right arm: P3 C P3

Turn.  Right arm: K3 A K3
Left arm: K20, pull through, K3 A K3
Right arm: K20

Turn.  Right arm: P20
Left arm: P3 C P3, pull through, P20
Right arm: P3 C P3

Time to start the intarsia.  Stitches with the contrasting color are marked in italics.  Okay!

Turn.  Right arm: K3 A K3
Left arm: K7 K2 K11, pull through, K3 A K3
Right arm: K11 K2 K7

Turn.  Right arm: P6 P4 P7 increase P2
Left arm: P3 C P3, pull through, P2 increase P7 P4 P6
Right: P3 C P3

Turn. Right arm: K3 A K3
Left arm: K5 K6 K10, pull through, K3 A K3
Right arm: K10 K6 K5

Turn. Right arm: P4 P8 P9
Left arm: P3 C P3, pull through, P9 P8 P4
Right arm: P3 C P3

Turn.  Right arm: K3 A K3
Left arm: K4 K8 K5 increase K3, pull through, K3 A K3
Right arm: K3 increase K5 K8 K4

Turn.  Right arm: P3 P10 P9
Left arm: P3 C P3, pull through, P9 P10 P3
Right arm: P3 C P3

Turn.  Right arm: K3 A K3
Left arm: K3 K10 K7, pull through, K5 A K3
Right arm: K9 K10 K3

Turn.  Right arm: P3 P10 P9
Left arm: P3 C P5, pull through, P7 P10 P3
Right arm: P3 C P3

Turn.  Right arm: K3 A K3
Left arm: K4 K8 K10, pull through, K3 A K3
Right arm: K10 K8 K4

Now some of the stitches (on the side opposite the seam, with more increases) are set aside for the thumbs, and more stitches are cast onto cross the hand between thumb and fingers.

Turn.  Right arm: P4 P8 P3.  Transfer next seven stitches onto scrap yarn.  Cast on three stitches.
Left arm: P3 C P1, pull through.  Transfer next nine stitches onto scrap yarn.  Cast on three stitches.  P3 P8 P4.
Right arm: Transfer the next two stitches onto the first piece of scrap yarn.  P1 C P3

Turn.  Right arm: K3 A K1
Left arm: K5 K6 K6, pull through, K2 A K3
Right arm: K7 K6 K5

Turn.  Right arm: P6 P4 P8
Left arm: P3 C P3, pull through, P6 P4 P6
Right arm: P1 C P3

Turn.  Right arm: K3 A K1
Left arm: K7 K2 K7, pull through, K3 A K3
Right arm: K9 K2 K7

End intarsia, resume knitting in the round.

*Right arm: K3 A K1
Left arm: K16, pull through, K3 A K3
Right arm: K18
Repeat from * for a total of six rounds.

Begin ribbing for the cuff around the fingers:

*Right arm: P1 K2 A K1
Left arm: P1 K2 P2 K2 P2 K2 P2 K2 P2 K1, pull through, K1 A K2 P1
Right arm: K1 P2 K2 P2 K2 P2 K2 P2 K2 P1
Repeat from * for a total of three rounds.

Bind off.  Turn inside out and weave in all the loose ends.  Sew up the seam on the side of the hand.
Begin thumb:

Right hand: Transfer the nine stitches that were set aside for the thumb from the scrap yarn back to the needle.  Put the six stitches closest to the top of the hand on the left needle tip, and the other three on the flexible part of the needle.
K6, pull through, K3
Pick up three stitches from those that were cast on earlier when making the thumb hole.  You now have 12 stitches total.
Knit straight for four rounds.
Knit in K1P1 rib for two rounds.
Bind off, weave in ends.

Left hand: Transfer the set-aside stitches onto the needle as before.  Put the six stitches closest to the palm of the hand on the left needle tip, and the other three on the flexible part of the needle.  Continue and finish as with the right hand.
Tags: creativity
Subscribe
  • Post a new comment

    Error

    default userpic
  • 0 comments